Rusty varnish: composition and application
All of us have faced rust many times, it haunts us everywhere, it can be found both on fences, locks, chains on the street, and on objects that we keep at home, for example: on knives, keys, reconstructive swords and on the trunks of weapons. This is quite a serious problem, because even a small area, corroded by corrosion, will eventually grow over the entire metal product. Rusted objects become less durable, unpleasant in appearance, they appear holes and they lose their functionality.
Previously, it was possible to protect or rid metal objects from rust only in industrial conditions, but now invented compositions with which you can fight this problem at home.
The topic of this article will be the blooming of rusty lacquer at home.
Why metals rust and how to deal with it
Rusted are metals that have passed into an oxidized form as a result of the influence of the environment. From corrosion, the metal is protected by thin, invisible films of oxide compounds, formed naturally by the action of oxygen in the air. Despite the fact that thanks to them the metal has some passivity, yet they can not completely protect it from the formation of rust.
Typically, additional protective films are applied to the metal to increase the corrosion resistance by chemical or electrolytic means in industrial plants.
Compositions to increase the resistance of corrosion metal paint it in black, but a number of drugs can change the color of the product in the most unpredictable manner. One of the most reliable compounds for protecting metal at home is a rusty varnish.
We do not recommend industrial methods for forming a protective film at home, as this is a very expensive and useless occupation.
What is a rusty varnish
A rusty varnish is a solution, when using which magnetic iron oxide is formed on the object to be treated. Also, this mixture of a number of components causes severe corrosion of the upper layer of steel.
Most often, guns are pierced, although the blinding of some other metal products is also possible.
The composition of rusty varnish includes acids, metal shavings and sometimes heavy metals.
When blended with such a compound, a thick layer of black iron oxide forms on the metal. Corrupted surface is removed with a rigid brush, and the metal is black and is a protective film.
Burning with rusty varnish. Advantages and disadvantages
Since oxidation of iron with rusty (English varnish) is an acidic process, in addition to a number of advantages, such treatment has drawbacks.
The advantages of this method include:
• For objects soldered with tin, this method of oxidation is the main one. Because this is one of the few solutions, which, painting over the tin, does not damage it.
• With its use, a beautiful thick matte surface forms, concealing all visible defects and scratches.
• Since the bloom temperature of rusty varnish does not exceed 100 degrees Celsius, you do not need to buy special utensils for this procedure.
• Where you put a rusty lacquer, there's a product and will get carried away.
• Compared to other oxidizing compounds, English varnish generates a small amount of toxic fumes when heated.
Disadvantages of blazing with rusty varnish at home:
• With insufficient quality pre-cleaning, some elements may remain unpainted when applying this solution.
• Burning a gun with a rusty varnish is a long process, but despite this, all actions need to be done quickly enough, otherwise you risk staying with an excessively rusted product.
• It may also be difficult to use this method due to impurities in the metal. This can be expressed in the appearance on the product of reddish-brown areas. To eliminate this effect, the resulting film will have to be removed and the whole funnel procedure will be done anew.
• With a small content in the iron alloy, it is necessary to select the temperature from 20-50 degrees centigrade experimentally. If the temperature is incorrect, the product may turn red.
That's all you need to know about the advantages and disadvantages of bluing.
Safety measures when working with rusty varnish
Like all the means for bluing, rusty varnish is quite a toxic substance, so when working with it for personal safety, you need to follow several rules:
• Work with this substance is necessary only in the open air, since the evaporation that occurs when it is heated can adversely affect your health.
• It is necessary to protect the skin as much as possible, in particular to wear gloves. This substance is very sticky and badly laundered.
How to prepare the composition for bloom yourself?
Of course, you can buy the so-called English varnish for bluing in specialized stores, but it will be much more profitable to do it yourself.
The preparation of rusty varnish at home is a laborious process, but very real.
Components and tools that you will need:
• Acid hydrochloric (technical) - 60 ml.
• Concentrated nitric acid - 64 ml.
• Cast iron or carbon filings - 40 grams.
• Metal scaling - 45 grams.
• Purified water - 1.1 liters.
• Glass or porcelain capacity of more than 1 liters.
Rusty varnish (recipe):
• Pour a third of the scale and metal shavings into the container.
• Fill the entire volume of hydrochloric acid with it.
• Pour a third of the nitric acid slowly.
• After the mixture has a greenish tinge and brown gas will be released, and then this reaction will subside, add one third of the chips and scale to the container.
• Add the next portion (another third) of nitric acid.
• After the reaction has resumed and again subsides, add residues of acid, chips and scale.
• Let the creamy mixture of rusty color brew for a day, closing the container with a film fixed with an insulating tape or tape.
• When the mixture is infused, add all purified water to it.
• Shake the resulting mixture and pour it into a dish that is more convenient for flushing.
Everything, a blend is ready. As you can see, making a rusty varnish is quite easy.
How to properly prepare the product for oxidation?
In order to ensure the formation of a beautiful black film over the entire surface of the metal object, the product should be ground, polished and degreased. If this is not done, then instead of a beautiful smooth layer of shiny black, you can get an uneven surface with streaks and reddish-reddish spots.
• Coarse sandpaper.
• Sandpaper "nullivka"
• Paste GOI.
• Degreasing solution.
Solutions for degreasing can be done independently, for this, dilute soda ash at the rate of 40 grams per 1 liter of water or sodium hydroxide at the rate of 13 grams per 1 liter of water.
Let's consider what operations need to be done before carrying out blasting of trunks with rusty varnish:
• Treat the surface of the oxidized object with coarse sandpaper.
• Carefully walk on it with sandpaper "zero"
• Rub the brush with GOI paste and sand it with metal.
• Wipe the remainder of the paste with a damp rag.
• Bring the degreasing liquid to 100 degrees Celsius.
• Keep the metal to be processed in 20-30 minutes to understand that the metal has degreased, remove it from the solution and ensure that the liquid covers the surface with an even film, not gathering drops.
• Rinse the defatted product with clean water.
Degreasing and blasting with rusty varnish must be done immediately after each other, otherwise the metal oxide is again formed under the influence of oxygen, a natural oxide film, and the varnish will lie unevenly.
Application of rusty varnish
The bluing begins with the fact that in two stages a rusty varnish is applied (the instruction for its manufacture in the home conditions was set out by us earlier). To apply this varnish it is necessary, necessarily having put on gloves, differently because of the skin fat present at you on fingers, in places of your touches structure metal will not cover.
So, let's start applying:
• Apply a thin, even layer of rusty lacquer over the entire surface of the product. If this is a weapon barrel, then its termination must be handled with special attention.
• Using a fine brush, blot out streaks, excess varnish and drops in the holes and grooves.
• After applying the first layer of rusty varnish, place the product in a warm place with a temperature of about 50 degrees Celsius. At the beginning of the drying, the product will be slightly yellowish, then it will begin to darken and cover with a dark orange layer.
• When the rusty varnish has completely dried, cover the product with one more thin layer, having necessarily eliminated all streaks and unevenness.
• Put the product back in a place with a temperature of at least 50 degrees Celsius (this could simply be a place near the stove or battery). As a result, the metal should be covered with a uniform rusty layer.
This step is necessary for obtaining on the oxidized metal product a beautiful black color. Digest must be processed metal in the distillate or steam.
Equipment for welding can be prepared by yourself. To do this, weld a bottom of a suitable diameter to the metal pipe and install the heating device from the electric kettle.
The process of welding includes the following steps:
• Pour purified or rainwater into the pipe (tap water will not work because of impurities contained in it).
• Add nitric acid (1,3 ml of acid per 1 liter of water) to the water digestion vessel.
• Bring the solution to a boil and boil it for 5 minutes.
• Dilute brown-orange metallic products for 15 minutes.
The cleaning stage from the rusty layer
The cleaning phase is made with the help of a special brush, which can be bought both in a specialized store, and done by yourself.
To create a special brush with an electric drive you will need:
• Metal wire mesh with a diameter from 1 to 1.5 mm.
• Nut, washer and long enough bolt.
• Drill or screwdriver.
The process of manufacturing an electric brush:
• Cut from the grid from 4 to 7 circles.
• Cut a circular hole in the center of each circle, equal to the diameter of the bolt.
• Fasten the wire circles with a nut, washer and bolt.
• Pass the protruding part of the bolt into the hole of the screwdriver and tighten it.
Clean the burnished surface with a homemade brush until the whole surface becomes black and shiny. The first time on the surface to be treated, most likely, there will remain spots of a rusty hue, so all the above actions (coating with rusty varnish, welding and cleaning) well
It will be repeated at least four times.
If you have produced all the stages enough times, then you should get a product evenly covered with a film of beautiful graphite.
Now you can oil the metal. This procedure is performed not only to give additional shine to the treated metal, but also to remove the residual moisture from the black film formed as a result of blasting.
It is important to remember that after oiling you will not be able to correct the irregularities and unpolished places on the burned object, so it is so important to remove all the defects before oiling.
• Heat the engine oil in the previously used container for cooking until the temperature is not lower than 100 and not higher than 110 degrees Celsius.
• Boil your product there for at least 5 minutes.
As a result, you should get a brilliant product of black color.
Let's once again say all the points that you must perform in order to achieve the best effect.
• Preparing the product for blasting, which includes grinding, polishing, degreasing and cleaning the metal from the degreasing solution.
• Application of rusty varnish in two stages (1).
• Extraction (1).
• Cleaning (1).
• Application of rusty varnish in two stages (2).
• Extraction (2).
• Cleaning (2).
• Application of rusty varnish in two stages (3).
• Extraction (3).
• Cleaning (3).
• Application of rusty varnish in two stages (4).
• Extraction (4).
• Cleaning (4).
Despite the fact that usually such a composition oxidizes gun barrels, the blasting with rusty varnish of home tools, dumbbells and dumbbells also occurs.
At the moment, oxidation of the trunks with rusty lacquer is not done at the plant, as there are a number of ways with which it is possible to produce a lot more quickly and more profitablely, but at home this is the most economical and simple method known to us.
In this article, you learned the reason why rust appears on the metal, in detail we considered the production of rusty varnish at home, using substances that are in free sale, divided the process of blasting with rusty varnish by our own hands and learned how to make all the tools necessary for this .