How to glaze a balconyJune 17, 2011
Information on how to glaze a balcony is useful to owners of apartments with open loggias and balconies. Few people leave the balconies unglazed, because the glazing provides a lot of advantages - greater noise insulation, insulation, protection from rain, etc. Proper glazing of the balcony should be safe for those living in the apartment and for the neighbors below. The frame must be securely fastened so that the wind gusts heavy rain or hail could not destroy it, and so that it does not fall down. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of materials and fasteners. If you want your balcony to represent something original and unique, the experts will come to your aid and the result of their work will delight you for more than one year.
There are several ways of glazing, in this article we will focus on the most accessible method. To begin with, the balcony is inspected to find suitable places for fixing. If the frame is supposed to be installed on a loggia, then you only need a frontal frame, and its installation is easier and faster.Balconies, on the other hand, are usually foundations in the form of an external concrete platform, with railings installed along the perimeter in the form of a welded metal fence or concrete slab.
If the balcony is at a height, then you need to take care of insurance. In this capacity, there can be a strong rope tied around a belt (not just a kind of stranglehold) and attached to the other end of the fence rack or a heating battery in the room. Then proceed to the measurement of the two side and the front side of the balcony railings. You also need to make sure that the roof is exactly above the railing, using a plumb line. Then measure the upper perimeter of the balcony, which should coincide with the dimensions of the perimeter of the balcony railings (Figure 1). If deviations are revealed, then it is necessary to take this into account when making frames.
After that, prepare a sketch of the future frame showing all the required dimensions. It should take into account the size of materials for the manufacture of the frame. For example, if the frontal frame size is 3 meters and the beam thickness is 5 cm, then taking into account the two side walls, the frontal size of the front frame will be 2.9 meters.When calculating the size, it is necessary to strive for a tight fit of the frames so that they enter the openings in the fit. As for the number of segments in the frame, this is a matter of taste, but it is worth remembering that it is better not to make too large openings - a large windage occurs, which leads to weakness of the structure. Also, the frame must be washed periodically, and getting to the edges of large glasses is quite difficult. It is better to let the flaps open inwards, otherwise a wind or a draft can break them. Sash bolts or other constipations should also be provided for the valves.
If you want to sheathe the balcony outside, it is better to do it before the glazing. The inner lining can also be completed after the frame has been installed. The best material for plating is lining, treated with linseed oil or pinotex.
After the manufacture of frames should be fitting. It is better to do it together, because it is difficult to keep quite heavy frames alone. Difficulties may arise when fitting the side parts of the balcony frame to the outer wall, which is usually even in appearance. Excess material is being cut off or cut off by a plane. After installing the frame in place, its outlines are marked out with a pencil and begin to mark the fixings.Figure 2 shows some options for fasteners. For example, the upper mount is made in the form of a bracket made from a strip of steel 30-50 mm wide and 3-5 mm thick, 100-150 mm long with holes for fasteners, with the help of which the bracket is fixed to the ceiling and frame. First, the bracket is fixed on the frame, then it is put in place and the place of drilling on the ceiling is laid out along the corresponding hole. Plastic dowels are driven into these holes, and screws of the appropriate length are screwed in.
The lower part of the frame is attached to the rail with bolts of at least M5 or, if the handrails are concrete or brick, with self-tapping screws. Before the final assembly of the frame, a tin visor is nailed to its upper part to protect it from precipitation.
After the assembly of the frame is completed, the side and frontal frames are fastened together with screws, bolts or nails. After that proceed to the glazing of the frame. Glasses put on silicone sealant, putty or mastic and fix the design with beadings. At the end of the glazing are hung shutters, restraints and latches and the glazing of the balcony is finished.