Garden bench do it yourselfMarch 22, 2010
A garden bench amidst greenery is the dream of every happy owner of a cozy garden near the house, but when looking at the prices of classic English benches in the catalogs of garden furniture, many are in a hurry to part with their dreams. We suggest you not to retreat from the realization of your desires and make a tree bench with your own hands.
For our bench, you can use local low-cost types of wood, and to extend the life of the bench, apply special coatings. In the garden, wood is exposed to moisture, sunlight and fungi, so first of all the tree is covered with antiseptic soil. For an additional effect, you can use a color antiseptic, which also gives your bench the necessary shade. The final color and quality of the surface (matte or varnish) depends on the number of applied layers of coating.
Having spent a relatively modest amount on materials and a few days to make a garden bench, you will end up with a classic English-style garden bench that will serve you for more than a dozen years.
Below we give the bench dimensions and detail templates. You can transfer dimensions directly to a tree (the size of each cell is 5x5 cm) or you can enlarge the drawing 10 times. Please note that the dimensions shown in the picture correspond to the dimensions after planing, after grinding the connected parts, a few millimeters may go away.
Instruments: You will need: band saw, milling machine with overhead spindle and circular saw.
Materials: Since wood is sold in the form of non-planed bars, you should choose easily treatable wood without knots. Cut the workpieces with allowances, and then take them to the carpentry workshop for processing. The joints of the bench are connected by wooden dowels made of strong wood (oak or pine), which sit on the glue.
The board: The edges of the armrests should be rounded off on a milling machine after gluing to avoid dark seams.
Garden bench do it yourself
- Cut out plywood or fiberboard templates of parts according to the drawing.
- Draw a profile of the bench on a sheet of plywood to clarify the height and depth of the bench seat.
- We attach the templates to the planed blanks and outline the contours of the parts.
- Cut out curved workpieces with a band saw, setting the guide rollers of the saw to the minimum distance.
- Grind cuts with coarse sandpaper (40 or 60 grit). Concave parts can be sanded using a belt grinder.
- Mark up space under the holes of the dowels on the bearing spars using reismasa.
- We transfer the drilling places to the legs of the bench and drill holes with a special tripod to maintain perpendicularity.
- Repeat the procedure of marking and drilling for the backrest slats, marking out the holes in the middle of the width of the strap.
- Rounding the edges of the slats.
- Fill the holes under the keys with a small amount of glue, insert the keys into the support bar and fix the strips with dowels.
- After all the elements have been connected, we press the back to the supports.
- Then we press the side parts.
- We constrict the back and the spar of the bench with clamps.
- Drill a hole in the seat and mark the drilling points in the support bar with nails.
- Attach the seat strip screws.
- Remove glue residue with chisel.
- We open the bench with lacquer, after unscrewing the seat strip.